Garment construction



NOV. 7, 1950 KLEIN ET AL 2,528,834

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed July 23, 1948 33 m 30 54 \m m qql mim ,3 5 K E W Q 7,045.25 51? 38 60 40 @NVENTORS -58 H BY M A :O(RNEY Patented Nov. 7, 1950 GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Ben Klein and Charles Miller, New York, N. Y., assignors to Varden Dress, Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application July 23, 1948, Serial No. 40,344

1 2 Claims. 1

This invention relates generally to wearing ap--v parel and more particularly to garments having special back constructions,

Among the objects of this invention lies the provision of novel garment back structure permitting a greater amount of freedom of movement by the wearer and enhancement of the appearance and style of the garment.

Another object herein lies in the provision of novel garment back construction having the above described characteristics and which is very readily installed in garments of known construction, at the same time requiring a minimum of change of fabricating technique and basic garment styling.

Another object herein lies in the provision of a novel garment back structure which operates with a maximum of comfort to the wearer, and in which structure is provided for constantly maintaining the back of the garment to produce a stylish neat appearance.

A still further object herein lies in the provision of a novel expansive back construction which maintains a substantially high degree of efliciency throughout the life ofthe garment by reason of the avoidance of rubber or similar materials which are deleteriously affected by'cleaning and laundering processes and age.

Garments constructed in accordancewith the present invention require a small amount of additional material so that the same, by reason of altered cutting layout, may not require material in an amount much greater than the amount normally used Where the present invention is not utilized. i

A further feature'her'ein lies in the fact that garments made in accordance with the present invention require an extremely small amount of additional labor over that normall required.

As contrasted with prior constructions for producing similar effects, the present invention is more efiicient and requires lower cost to install, with the result that the same may have a consequent Wide distribution and use. While the present expansive back construction is highly effective, it is to be noted that the-same does not add too much to the bulk of the garment. Thus, garments made in accordance herewith, when worn in warm weather, are comfortable.

A feature of the present invention lies in the fact that the finished garment-presents an orthod'o'x appearanceand except during short periods of greatest expansion, does not disclose that it is of unusual construction.

These objects and other incidental ends and 2 advantages will more fully appear in the progress of this disclosure and be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings similar reference characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views:

Figure 1 is a front view in perspective of an embodiment of the invention, in a position it may take as worn.

Figure 2 is an enlarged fragmentary view in perspective as seen from the rear of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is an enlarged fragmentary perspective view corresponding generally to Figure 2 but showing the garment back in a stressed condition.

Figure 4 is an enlarged horizontal fragmentary sectional view as seen from the plane 44 on V Figure 2.

Figure 5 is an enlarged fragmentary vertical sectional view as seen from the plane 5-5 on Figure 2,

In accordance with the invention, the garment generally indicated by reference characterZO and illustrated in Figures 1 to 5 inclusive, may be of any desired construction with the exception of the garment back 2 I. It is desired that the garment be composed of relatively non-stretchable material or of a material having a low degree of elasticity, since it is an important object of this invention to impart the effect of elasticity to garments composed of relatively inelastic material.

The garment may include a front or bosom portion 22, a skirt 23 and a collar 24. The back 2| and the front bosom portion 22 form the upper portion of the garment to which are connected the sleeves 25 and 26.- While the sleeves 25 and 26 are shown as short sleeves, they ma be of any desired length,

The garment back includes broadly a yoke element 28, a first back element 353, a second back element 32, a third or inner back element 3 5, and a fourth or outer back element 36.

The first and second back elements 33 and 32, at the outer portions 38 and 4!! thereof respectively, may merge into the bosom portion 22, while the inner vertical free edges 4-2 and M thereof are folded upon themselves inwardly of the garment to provide hems thereat. I The third or inner back element 3ll is connected by'the stitch means 4'6 and 48 at its vertical free edges 59 and 52 to the hems formed by the edges t2 and 44. The third or inner back element 34 is vpreferably composed of a textilematerial having a high degree of elasticity as for example knitted material of the ribbed type. Such material preferably has the ribs arranged in a vertical longitudinal fashion so that the same has a high degree of transverse stretch. The edges 50 and 52 may be suitably treated to prevent frating, as for example by having a merrow stitch thereon (not shown).

The fourth or outer back element is preferably composed of the same textile material of which the balance of the garment is composed, or for example the back elements 363 and 32. The outer longitudinal free edges 54 and 56 are folded inwardly upon themselves to produce the bight edges 58 and 60. The size and positioning of the parts is such that the bight edges 58 and i8 overlap upon the back elements 30 and 32 so that when the garment 20 is in an unstressed condition, the inner back element 3:3 is' com pletel concealed from view.

The outer back element 36 is joined to th inner back element 3 throughout the length thereof "by the spaced and parallel rows of stitch means 62 and 6G. The stitch means 82 and 6d are preferably relatively close together so as to provide a maximum area for the back members 33 and 35 and a minimum area for the central back member 3}. This is desirable because the back member 3? is for the most part prevented from laterally expanding by virtue of its connection to the outer back element which is composed of relatively inelastic material. While we have shown the inner back element 3!; as being composed of a single piece of knitted material, this is so because it is more economical to manufacture the same that way. Where desired, the back members 33 and 35 may be independent pieces of knitted material and the central back member 3'! may be omitted. i

The yoke -28 is preferably composed of two layers, including an outer layer 56 and an inner layer 63 and the upper edges of the backelements 3t and 3,2 as well as the back elements 3 1 and 36' are secured to the lower edges of'the lay ers E6 and 58 preferably in a concealed manner by the transverse row of stitches 'ii'i. This construction is best seen in Figure 5.

The lower edges of the last mentioned back elements 3%, 32, 35' and 36 are secured preferably in a concealed manner to the upper edge portion E2 of the skirt 23 by the stitches M which also preferably engage a waistband reinforcement member 25. The stitches l4 arepreferably located substantially at the waistline of the garment and the entire seam may be concealed by a belt 78 supported by the loops 85.

When the completedgarment is worn, the present invention does not appreciably affect the styling thereof and the presence thereof is onl evidenced by the bight edges 58 and 60 being visible and this actually contributes to the appearance and styling of the garment. While we have shown the present invention, by way of illustration, as incorporated within the particular back portion of a, womans dress, where desired the same may be incorporated in other garments which cover the back of the wearer. The present invention, that is to say, the novel back construction, is of great value in connection with all kinds of garments where the wearer requires free and substantial arm movement. When the wearer stoops element 34, particularly the back members 33 and 35, come into use, thereby increasin the effective width of the back 2|. Upon a release of the outward tension by the return of the wearers arms to their normal position, the back element ,34 and particularly the back members 33 and 35, contract, thereby moving the edges 42 and 44 to their normal position. This restores the garment back to a neat and trim appearance.

It may thus be seen that we have provided a novel garment back construction providing advantages of comfort in use, trim appearance, and low cost. By virtue of the stitch means62 and 64 which retain the outer back element 36 in operative position, undesirable buckling gapping and wrinkling do not occur and yet the resilient members are free to perform their desired functions. Since, b reason of such novel construction, certain seams and portions of the garment are less stressed in use,.it.may be expected that a consequent longer wear before rupture of seams or garment parts will take place. 1

We wish it to be understood that we do not desire to be limited to the exact details of construction shown and described, for obvious modifications will occur to a person skilled in the art.

We claim: 7

1. Garment back construction comprising: a yoke element; a first back element; a second back element spaced from said first back element; a

. third inner back element composed of a resilient material and connected at the outer edge portions thereof to the juxtaposed edges ofv said first and second back elements; and a fourth outer back element outwardly. overlying the third inner back element and the inner opposed. edge portions of the first and'second back elements; means serving to connect said first, second, third and fourth back elements at the upper portions thereof along a substantially horizontal line to the yoke element; and means connecting ,said, third and fourth back elements only along a substantially centrally disposed vertical line.

2. Garment back construction comprising: a. yoke element; a first back elem-ent; a second back element spaced from said first back element; a third inner back element composed of a resilient material and connected at the outer edge portions thereof to the juxtaposed'edges of said first and second back' elements; and. a fourth outer back element outwardly overlying the third inner back element and the inner opposed edge portions of the first and :second back elements; stitch means serving to connect said first, second, third and fourth back elements at the upper portions thereof along a substantially horizontal line to the yoke element; and stitch means connecting said third and fourth backelements only along a substantially centrally disposed vertical line.

BElWKLEIN. CHARLES MILLER.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,010,434 Langrock Aug, 6, 1935 2,194,156 Speh Mar. 19, 1940 2,322,451 Jones June 22, 1943 2,367,843 Roy Jan. 23, 1945 

